Our two-week holiday in Madeira at Calheta Boutique Houses and tips to help any other sixty plus couples wanting to visit in January!
Before you arrive two Apps, we found helpful were My Walks App and he Bolt App for taxis.
You may also want to book whale watching from Calheta harbour but this is very weather dependent so I would recommend booking on the day in low season.
When hiring a car its good to go for a high-powered automatic SUV but a small model in terms of size. The roads can be narrow and steep.
By the end of the holiday, I was checking out the route before we set off on a trip on Google Maps to make sure it was mainly on the new V roads. These have replaced some of the old treacherous roads.
This is what we did each day
Saturday, January 11th
We arrived in Madeira late afternoon and picked up the hire car, allow some time for this. We then drove to Calheta Boutique House: Approximately 45 minutes.
Because we went to Supermarket Pingo Doce Super Calheta to collect supplies, on the main street in Calheta it was dark when we arrived at our house which was called Cinza, but we were immediately at home. There was wine and snacks on the table. Loads of space with comfortable stylish furniture. It was super clean, and the spacious powerful shower was amazing.
Sunday, January 12th
We woke up to the views over the sea. We enjoyed a morning coffee from the Nespresso machine at the house on the terrace amongst the flowers that bloom in January.
Later that morning after a friendly chat with Dave, our host at Calheta Boutique Houses, we explored Calheta Beach and took a leisurely walk along the coastline.
We had lunch at Manifalturadi di gelato an Italian restaurant (ignore reserved signs!). Looking over the harbour sitting outside in mid-winter, home seemed like another planet!
In the evening, we cooked at the house which is a pleasurable experience in such a lovely kitchen.
We then watched the sun set over the sea!
Monday, January 13th
We had a leisurely breakfast before a Levada Walk: Levada do Alecrim
We parked at Park at Miradouro do Rabacal which can be busy so check out all the different areas to park along the road. Do not miss the view from here over the road from the car park.
We followed signs for 6.2. The leisurely walk finishes at Dona Beja Pool. There are more challenging walks from this car park if you prefer.
We packed a picnic as there is no café on route
Tuesday, January 14h
We set off on another longer walking tour. We followed walk Levada Pedragal -Panto Pargo on My Walks App which is a circular walk
The walk had lovely views and passes through traditional areas. We saw people looking after their cows, wonderful scenery and so many flowers including lilies in the valleys! A forest fire in recent years has burnt some of the trees but it is wonderful to see nature taking hold again. To park, turn off E101 onto Caminho do Pedregal and park on the street. We found it quite tricky to find the starting point. Again, a packed lunch is a good idea
Wednesday January 15th
In the morning, we chilled and read on the terrace. Alan took a dip in the heated pool. Everything is provided even a robe and melamine drinking glasses.
We had lunch at the house before taking a Bolt taxi to Funchal. The destination we used on the app was The Art Food Corner which was a central location.
We then walked around the old town doors – sorry to say they they did not choose the best artists!
We then visited the Market. The store holders were very pushy, but the building was impressive.
.We had a quick visit to the Cathedral; the interior is very ornate.
After shopping at Marina shopping centre, we strolled along the Marina and saw the statue of Ronaldo.
Before dinner we had cocktails and drinks at MUSA where we found lovely staff and a great atmosphere.
We then headed for our dinner at Gazebo Experience booked for 8pm. It was an amazing meal, but you must book beforehand.
Thursday, January 16th
We visited Cámara de Lobos and found a lovely promenade and a pebble beach. We walked from here to Pestano Churchill Bay, just around the corner. Alan had his picture taken with the Churchill statue, but the village is not as picturesque as other places on the island. We walked back to Camara de Lobos through the village
On the way home we visited Cabo Girao glass walk. Parking spaces were limited nearby so try to get there early or late. It does not take long unless you combine it with a walk, but it was worth it for the views.
Friday, January 17th
In the morning, we relaxed in the house, it does rain sometimes so be prepared to change and adapt.
In the afternoon we went to Forest Fanal. A world heritage site. So magical as the cloud passed through. From the far edge there are sea views. Make sure you walk around the whole area. Check on google maps as there really are not many marked routes and you can just wander around.
Saturday, January 18th
We took a trip to the Madeira Theme Park which is at the bottom of the hill as you approach Santana. It is quite old fashioned. Parking is on the right as you drive in. We had a snack lunch in the café. It was noticeably quiet. There were only two other families but there are lots of staff.
We then walked up the hill into Santana. The area where the houses are is quite small. We shopped for fruit and vegetables in the market area. It was interesting to see food you cannot buy in the UK. It is quite a long way to drive from Calheta so I would say only go if you really want to see the houses.
Sunday, January 19th
We spent the morning at the house reading by the pool and on the balcony. Later in the day we walked around Paul do Mar which is not far away. The harbour area was pretty, and we thought the statue of the man looking out to sea was very impressive. it was an experience to see the waves crashing in on the front.
We then walked to the other side of the bay negotiating a few stray dogs to Maktub Bar which felt full of sunshine even on a grey day. Wonderful cocktails.
Monday, January 20th
We drove to The Botanic Gardens in Funchal. We had a snack lunch in the small café but probably should have had lunch in Funchal first. You could do that and then take the cable car up to the gardens. On the day we went the cable car was not running due to the weather. We parked in a small car park just down the hill from the entrance. The gardens are interesting, I particularly liked the cactus area.
Tuesday, January 21st
We were going to do a Levada Walk: Levada dos 25 Fontes. It was raining so much in the mountains we decided to travel back to Calheta where we were able to sit out in the sunshine on the front. We also had a short walk along the front at Ponta do Sol. An easy diversion along the main road.
Wednesday, January 22nd
A rest day relaxing at the house and by the pool.
Thursday, January 23rd
We visited the museum of Modern Art in Calheta. Some interesting work but we were more impressed with the building itself. Looking up into the Calheta hills we could see a rainbow in front of the colourful houses perched on the hillside.
In the evening, we went again to Manifalturadi di gelato as we liked the food so much the first time!
Friday, January 24th
We explored the western coast and drove to Porto Moniz. We took the western coast road on the way there and were amazed by how many wildflowers we could see.
We saw the natural swimming pool. A perfect spot for a swim. Unfortunately, we had not brought costumes as we did not think people would be swimming. The small town is very picturesque. We had lunch overlooking the sea and tasted the black scabbard fish which is a local speciality.
We also had a look around the small but informative sea life centre.
In the afternoon we visited Seixal beach which is a slightly hairy drive. The volcanic beach is interesting as are the many young people trying to get the perfect Instagram shot!
Saturday, January 25th
We checked out at 10am then had a brunch in Calheta before returning the car. Our BA departure to Gatwick which was meant to set off at 17:25 was eventually cancelled at about 20:00 hours when coincidentally the helpline closes! We got a message to tell us to fly with Tap Air to Lisbon and then fly back to Heathrow in the morning. Fortunately, we found another couple on the same route and managed to find our own hotel a short walk from the airport. Arriving in Heathrow Mike kindly picked us up so we could then drive back to Gatwick to collect my car. We eventually arrived home at 18:00 on Sunday. After all that we need another holiday!
We have so many wonderful memories of our time at Calheta Boutique houses and Madeira. We will be back.
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